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| DOES YOUR SADDLE BRIDGE LIKE THIS, IT SHOULD! |
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| THIS HORSES BACK & ABDOMINAL ARE RELAXED & THIS IS A GOOD FIT, except the sharp bar angle on loins. |
Dear Len,
We have been using the Corrector for several months. The roaning on our chestnut mare, that
was due to poor saddle fit on the sides of the withers, is almost TOTALLY GONE... She also is much more comfortable
going down hill with a rider. Her saddle before was pressing on her shoulder blades and she really would go slow.
So thankyou so much for making these problems go away in such a simple
solution and so affordable.
We really didn't want to get rid of our custom made $2,000.00
saddle- So Soon - Now we don't have to. ..... Thanks again - Pat & Dane Schlaich, Glendale, CA.
| JUST ONE STEP W/ RIDER & NO IMPINGEMENT- PINCHING |
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| IF A SADDLE WAS FITTED TO 1st Pic. of BRIDGING, MULE SHIMS WOULD BE Necessary to MAKE IT WORK! |
| THE PROTECTIVE SHIELDS IN THE CORRECTOR ON HORSE. |
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| THESE 4 SHIELDS ARE WHAT MAKE THE CORRECTOR WORK! SHAPING TO & MOVING WITH YOUR HORSE. |
First I want to thank you for your interest in the CorrecTOR and
in keeping your horse comfortable. It isn't everyone that is aware or thinks it makes any difference. I tried
to make using this device as easy as possible. I'm sure someone will need help with something that's not explained here.
The Corrector comes with simple instructions and a peel-off label showing where to place the saddle tree bar at the front.
It's a 2x4 label and gives the basic instructions again. Just cover that label up with your tree bar & girth well forward
and tighten.
With your left hand lift the corrector and Envelope pad up into the gullet of the fork. This will
work down to the horse after you get on, very quickly. It simply lets the saddle get well down-around the horse while
girthing. Then while looking at the rear of the horse on the near side, push against him with your left hand.
When he pushes back against you, pull out and up on the latigo with your right. Repeat this one more time and use your
shoulders as you pull with your right and push with your left. I've shown this to world champion roper Dee
Pickett, and he said,"Gee, that would work with any saddle"!
The point is ; to cinch Quick, tight, & without pinching, while the horse is concentrating
on pushing back against you! You're no longer jerking him around and this eliminates most behavior problems while
cinching. Run a tight girth to begin with, it's sure to loosen AFTER A FEW MINUTES IN THE SADDLE. Tighten again if it's not
snug. You can do that from the saddle.
Cinch well forward, about 2 to 3 inches
behind the elbow. This positions your saddle better and the girth doesn't slip forward and loosen later. You're
girthing on the STERNUM and it won't affect you horse's breathing. While the saddle is often pulled
forward, the CorrecTOR will MOVE IT BACK TO ALLOW FOR FREE SHOUDLER MOVEMENT!
Too loose a girth promotes SADDLE
ROLLING as does OVERPADDING. Rolling causes; sore/
unhappy animals at the girth, under saddle, and often ruins performance and behavior.
I find more saddles today that are too curved
in the center of the bars. If the rear of your saddle bars are not firmly on the horse after adjusting the front balance shim,
put in the 2 rear shims on each side. It takes pressure off the center of the bars and gives room for the horse's back to
round. That means he gets under himself in the rear & takes longer strides. The saddle is stablized and there's less loin
rubbing.
The low withered horse often brings his
back up like a mule's and it's actually "ROUNDED".
A saddle is like a rocking chair
at that time and your saddling problems are multiplied. Even a straighter bar bites into the center of the back
on these animals. You should have firm contact at the rear of the bars when riding at a walk. With a relaxed
back at standstill you always have pressure back there. That's why it does no good to check the
standing horse for saddle fit.
I prefer pads that don't trap
in heat. Anything over 1 inch is too thick. Fleece is true padding, I rode 3,000 mi. on 2 layers of fleece under
my saddle.
Using an Envelope
pad is the easiest way to use the Corrector. MY SOCK works fine but it can still let your regular pad above
it be pushed around by the horse. Flat pads are bindingly tight while Contoured pads often bunch-up in the
center when the back is up while riding.... The Elliptical cut of the Envelope pad & CorrecTOR lets them move
from "flat" to "Contoured" and every shape needed } inbetween!
This
center "Cut" is so functional it's Patent Protected.
The Envelope
keeps your pad from walking back and you only have 1 unit to fool with when you saddle up. If you've got 3" of
the Envelope Pad out in front of your saddle, after riding, you're doing OK. The Cut at the top
of the Corrector is repeated in the Envelope Pads. With them, Contoured Pads are no longer needed..
How does the CorrecTOR work? Why doesn't it have SHIMS in the
middle to Prevent BRIDGING I'm amazed at the 2 Major saddletree makers selling what amounts to body-armor to go under their
trees to protect the horse. Talk about LOSS of CONTACT! It's amazing to me that they haven't figured out how the
horse's body functions while riding, [the only time tree fit
can determined]! The middle of the horse's back comes up 1"minimum at a walk and much more at a trot.
Any saddle fitted, while the horse is
standing, to relieve pressure on the ends of the bars will; create too much pressure on the middle of the back during riding!
What's called BRIDGING is the horse contracting his back from pain, usually from the front
of the bars or the out-side rear edge of the bars. This is what the 4 molded protective shields in the CorrecTOR
are designed to prevent, with as little resistance to the saddle as possible!
Now a little more about checking your horse to monitor his condition and progress. If you're
into reading dry spots, bring along a crystal ball. Old damage, no contact, good firm contact with no movement, or an
actual fresh small pressure area, can your Vet. tell?
Palpating the muscles is the only way to determine what's going on. Extreme sensitivity after unsaddling
is usually friction soreness. With pressure added this causes fluid to rush to the area of damage, which shows
as a roaning of hairs next coat change.
Pressure soreness can best be checked before saddling. Palpate under the saddle area. Lift
the front leg at the knee and check the shoulders where they interfere with the tree bars. You may find
the lower rear of the right scapula sore, as well as the upper left wither. This is common in left-lead horses
ridden a lot. Shorten the right stirrup and lengthen the left for starters and use balance shims on the right only (read
the note below). Using the CorrecTOR, it still takes weeks to remove all the soreness from really damaged
muscle tissue. The facia in the shoulder area takes much longer to recover. One ride without protection [as before] can reinstate
the original damage! Use the CorrecTOR everytime you
ride! Consistency is the name of the game.
This is a start on keeping track of your horses progress. If you are competing at top levels it has to
be a science. That's what I've done for Veterinary Universities in the US. and a group of 22 Vets. in EUROPE that paid for
my services.
Next, try riding the
CorrecTOR without any pad and see how it's working as your horse moves. I remember when I put the expert cutter
Leon Harrel on an O/F saddle with no pad. He was intently watching the front of the saddle as he did turnbacks, stops,
spins, & so-on. I was impressed because he used no visible que's or aid's, [much better than any dressage pro I know].
When he finished he said, "I never knew a horse moved that much". I told him,"they don't under just a saddle."
Cutters, Barrel Racers and Reiners that couldn't get used to the; loss of contact, shock absorbtion and re-bound of the
O/F system will love the CorrecTOR. I designed it without any bounce and very close contact! Enjoy
PS, I do offer very dense 1/4" felt
shims with velcro that sit above the molded shields. The come as 6 front balance shims,(3 on each side) or as mule
shims with 4 exta added for the rear,(2 on each side). They can be used for one-sided horses, straight
backed horses and mules ridden with a regular western saddle, also for increasing wither clearance or balancing the seat of
a saddle for the rider by lifting the front. The left lead, rt. handed horse can be balanced by lightening
the rt. fore and burdening the left (using all shims on the right only). It then makes him work his lazy left hind more,
but that's a deep subject, just go to page 6 on this website for a full explanation. Thanks, Len
Saddlepads; what they really do under your saddle!
Padding a saddle is the most misunderstood and abused area of horsemanship. Overall, there
is an infinite number of padding combinations which develop thru trial and error by every horseperson
with few actually understanding why their special combination works. I will try to define padding, explain
it's actual use and value, and give you a simple base of knowledge to draw from as you go about choosing the right pad when saddling
your horse even if you don't use the Corrector.
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Let's define true padding as a material that
compresses 1/2 it's thickness at pressures below that assumed to cause loss of circulation with sustained use.
Let's assume this pressure is 2 lbs / sq. inch. Fleece compresses at 1/2 to 3/4s lb /sq. inch. It is true padding.
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Neoprene foam that feels soft to the touch,
compresses 1/2 it's free standing thickness @ 40 P.S.I. or more!
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Navajos compress on your bathroom scales with a
1''x 1" board at hundreds of P.S.I., it is not padding!
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Only the softest of felts and foam could be considered
to meet our definition of padding.
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I'm often ask about the heat or pressure sensitive
foams(slow recovery) types! They are too slow, the changes in shape are happening much faster than any of these foams can
react to. They then have spots that remain compressed in use! They are an improvement over most of the above however.
Let's define the typical felt, navajo, and foam pad as A STRUCTURAL COMPONENT placed under a saddle !
If 1" of structural component is placed under a saddle, it raises the saddle in the REAR, 1 inch.
It raises the front of the same saddle 1&1/2"
to 1&3/4" depending on the angle of the shoulders & withers.
It therefore RAISED THE FRONT of the saddle and put the riders weight back into the seat. You can say it narrowed
the saddle by 2" or widened the horse by 2", but only in the front. This took the riders weight out of the stirrups [&off
the front of the too wide saddle] and improved the saddling situation. So long as excessive roll isn't developed
on the low withered horse, or excessive pinching isn't developed on the high withered horse, you may have improved
your saddling situation.
Fleece won't do the above,
it just lightly pads the contact that is present without affecting balance.
MY STATEMENT; "get the most comfortable saddle for you and let
the corrector make it that way for your horse", is very important. The corrector and Envelope pad isn't thick enough to change
your balance.
When using the Corrector, it will move your saddle just out of the way of your horse's shoudlers. This
can drop your saddle too low in front, therefore putting you out of balance. It will not be as good as "being
in a comfortable, neutral, and balanced seat". A comfortable rider sitting relaxed evenly distributes pressure
throughout the tree.
Continual "extra" pressure front will sore a horse, even under the ORTHO-FLEX panels!
The corrector will position your saddle
just back of the horses shoulders. If this drops you too low in front, add balance shims needed to lift you back up to
where you're most comfortable.
YOU COULD CORRECTLY SAY, "I AM ADJUSTING FOR THE WIDTH OF MY SADDLE WHEN PADDING MY HORSE "!
To reduce pressure at the
front of the saddle, YOU SHOULD NARROW IT. Isn't that what the old saddles did?
It also keeps the saddle from sliding up/over the shoulders so easily. Add the full forward rigging
of the older saddle and you have a much more positive saddling situation!
With a full forward rigging; many of todays saddles are too wide (sitting behind the shoulders
where they should), for good rider balance........... Move the rigging back to 5/8s, pull the (too wide) saddle
up over the shoulders and balance the rider better.
Did I just describe your saddle?
The CorrecTOR will hold your saddle just back of the shoulders regardless of where the rigging
is positioned on your saddle. It does this with leverage, using the horse's shoulders to lift & bend the
front shiels. They are FLEXIBLE LEVERS held in place by the pressure from your tree bars. Front Balance Shims
then can adjust the balance, as needed.
Balance is very important
to the rider and horse, being necessary for the comfort of both. It can only be experienced not described. As I have
always said; until you have been to both ends, you won't know where the "middle" is! The middle is what you want, if
you are to be balanced. I hope this has helped you understand padding & saddling better.
Thanks, LEN
Now sewn around all edges so you can MACHINE WASH !
| The underside shows the molded shields and cut! |
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| This is part of what let's the CorrecTOR stay with the movement of your horse! |
| Not a SADDLEPAD, Hides UNDER your PAD on / HORSE. |
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| Western Cotrrector w/ ft. balance shims makes "SADDLEFITTING" > EASY with any> horse, any> saddle. |
Caution, if you ride treeless saddles for Endurance
or Competitive Trail, I recommend you PRAY. Please consult a higher power, for your problems will be eternal and I don't
want to be the continual customer service dept. for the opportunist producing or selling these things. Thank
you, Len Brown
If you just trail ride
and have a fat horse with recessed spinous processes, your own well padded derriere and you don't put any weight in the
stirrups. Then you might have a chance if you include the following: Don't use too much padding so side to side roll
doesn't sore in the girth area, don't tighten the girth too much, ride with short stirrups and a bend to the knee, don't ride
too fast or hard ( initially the warning; "made for training and exercise, not intended for extended use or competion"
was in the literature on this copy of a centuries old concept. If the manufacturer's of these would read
a history book they'd learn how the Indians and Barbarians made and used such without damaging the horse.
I have requests
wanting to know if : the corrector will stop the fluid bumps and raw spots on the spine?, if it will fix the spots of
white on the horses back under the riders seat bones?, if it will stop the rubbing at the loins?, if it will stop
the pressure and dry spots at the withers? The
Corrector will only take care of the pressure under the fork: (arch) (Pommel) (head) (brace), and your seat bones.
A number of the testimonials on the feedback pages are TREELESS SADDLE RIDERS using just the std.
Western Corrector. On this subject I will leave you with this; " I've been selling a treeless shim set to barrel
racers, trail riders, and others. They are designed to leave a channel down the center of the back as the actual treeless
riding pads were built for thousands of years. Since our horse's are more chunky now this shim set also rounds out the
seat some and is cut-out for your thigh.
They are 3 layers of the dense 1/4" shim felt that are glued together in a terraced fashion. They go in the envelope pad only one
way. You either put them in or take them out! Some of your horse's won't require them but you may find them more comfortable
for your seat because they add a better shape to many horse's backs. You are only sitting on felt and the rear PROTECTIVE
SHIELDS. The shields spread out the pressure from your seat bones while moving gently with your horse's back &
loins. PS> I finally gave in, LEN
Jonell Baker, Kunkle OH.> In her own words!
"I only use a wool blanket over mine, Mosely loves it and NO WHITE HAIRS THIS YEAR!!
" to read the rest of Jonell's story go to CUSTOMERS TELL IT THE WAY IT IS! on the Navigation bar above left.
Dear potential Customers, There are NO Returns or Refunds
on the Corrector.
I keep the prices down by: keeping the Operation small. I do
the shipping, work with you direct, and take care of any questions.
If I'm sending the Corrector out by the thousands every month, The
Cost's and the prices would be much higher. I can't build that many
anyway. Len
GET OUT YOUR VISA or M/C and CLICK HERE / for A PAIN>FREE EXPERIENCE, FOR YOU & YOUR HORSE!
| What you can expect to see under the CorrecTOR . |
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| Std. West.[Skeleton] / Dark.@ Ft. & R.=movement, Cnt. & Ft. shields=firm contact, less movement |
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