The NEVER~TIGHT CRUPPER, a MOST IMPORTANT PIECE OF TACK to be developed
in 1,000's of years. I have riders today that don't know what the importance of this Crupper is? Cruppers & Britchens
have been used that long in attempt to hold the saddle back & off the shoulders of the equine while in downhill riding.
Britchens loosen as the incline gets steeper. For 3,000 miles I got off at the top of the mountain & tightened the 3 pack
horse's britchens. After reaching the bottom of the grade I got off and loosened them so as not to gall the hindquarters.
That is more trouble than I care to do on hills & not mountains. Cruppers were used by the U.S. Indians & all the
Cavalries of the world. As the hindquarters reach forward on an incline, the Britchen loosens & the Crupper tightens.
That makes the Crupper more efficient but it still has limitations. If tightened to contact to the underside of the tail while
animal is standing, it will be to tight when riding & the solid hit to the tail with every stride will create havoc. So
it is necessary to put 3 fingers of clearance between the Croup & the strap going to the tailpiece. That leaves the Crupper
lose when on the flat. It then only intermittently tightens at the peak of every stride in the downhill. It takes an extremely
steep incline for it to function at a 50% efficiency.
ADJUSTING THE NEVER-TIGHT CRUPPER YOU TIGHTEN 2 OR 3 HOLES AFTER THE SLACK IS OUT OF THE CRUPPER. EACH HOLE = 1 INCH WHICH
= 5 LBS OF TENSION. So 10 to 15 lbs to start makes the equine tuck his hind when you mount adding another 5 or 10 lbs of tension.
In the downhill the tension increases as the grade of incline increases. NEVER DOES THE TAIL HAVE A SOLID HIT WITH
|TO ASSEMBLE THE NEVER~TIGHT CRUPPER, JUST
|SLIP THE 12 HOLE STRAP WITH SNAP, INTO THE BUCKLE & SLEEVE COVERING THE ELASTIC 3" WEB.
So finally there is something to hold the saddle back in the downhill!
BUT IT DOES MUCH MORE THAN THAT, SO HERE IS A LIST:
Crupper holds a saddle back while riding on the FLAT.
- The ELASTIC Crupper MAKES
the ANIMAL TUCK IT'S HIND WHEN MOUNTING & INCREASES the reach of the hindquarters as speed of gait is increased.
- THE ABOVE IS AN IMMEDIATE AND NATURAL REACTION OF EVERY EQUINE. Resistance is only found with a hard hit to
the tail of which there is none!
- THE ABOVE CREATES NATURAL COLLECTION BY PUTTING THE HINDQUARTERS
TO WORK. USE IT INITIALLY AS AN EXERCISE PROGRAM FOR BUILDING UP THE HINDQUARTERS & BACK MUSCLES IF YOU ARE INTO PERFORMANCE
WORK AT THE TROT OR CANTER OR FULL SPEED.
- YOU WILL FIND YOUR EQUINE SOFTER AT THE
BIT, MORE ATTENTIVE AT THE SAME TIME.
- THE LAZY LOOSE REINED "dog walk"
on the trail will be gone along with the tiring movement . You may have to squeeze for a faster walk.
- The BACK will be UP with NATURAL COLLECTION thereby ELIMINATING MORE SADDLING PRESSURES & PINCHING OF WITHERS
than ANY SADDLE PAD IS CAPABLE OF!
NEVER BEFORE has the CINCH been as IMPORTANT as the NEVER~TIGHT
NEVER~TIGHT means just that. Even though you tighten
this Cinch it will never be tight where your horse breathes or where cinches normally "bite" into the sensitive
skin just back of the elbow & up a bit. This "FLAT OF THE RIBS" area is constantly pinched by the front edge
of almost every girth. The Shoulder Relief Cinch will not fix this. I tried that solution 30 years ago. Using simple logic
it looked like it would work until I tightened it. Putting a V'd elbow in a flat strap makes the strap bubble when tightened.
It's the worst possible result one wants.
How do I make a girth that doesn't get tight when you Cinch very strongly on both sides? It wasn't easy &
I spent a year making patterns to mold the plastic core to finally come up with the results I was aiming for. I knew a cinch
with the half round shape would not pull tight on the "flat of the ribs". I'd done that as of 1992 or so. It
also had a molded Aircraft plastic core. I wanted one even better that also had the shape of the horse's flared barrel.
Some animal's elbows rotate over the cinch every stride at a walk! That means the girth also has to stay close to the
skin so as to allow that and not gall the skin of the elbow. Think of your horse or mule's barrel as pictured from the
front, as a V. The bottom of the V is slightly flattened & rounded at the sternum area. After the flat of the ribs, it
rounds a bit to a vertical flat spot & continues a bit of rounding upwards from there. Some barrels are more "well
sprung" than average, other animals have a larger level spot above the flat of the ribs. Now you see it's not so
simple to come up the this magic shape?
After many attempts I did get the
FLARE & rounded shape I was wanting after testing it on different animals. When you just hold it up to the sternum as
seen a the bottom of this page, it looks like part of the horse. When Cinching tight on both sides, it pulls on the sternum
& brings the buckles together for a 3 point contact. This leaves the flat of the ribs some space to expand & contract
with breathing. Behavior changes are often noticed immediately! Young horses in training will show improvement before you
mount in many cases. I had a TX Cutting horse Trainer tell me this. "The Colt was like a different horse the
moment I walked him out of his stall. I'd been using the Protector Pad on him & the only change I'd made was the
NEVER~TIGHT Cinch. He rode different & worked better."
ADVANTAGES: XXXX means it holds your saddle
4 times better than any other girth!
- YOUR ANIMAL BREATHES
NATURALLY & CAN WORK LONGER WITHOUT BLOWING!
- SADDLE & YOU ARE HELD IN
PLACE LETTING THE HORSE BALANCE HIMSELF WITHOUT A SHIFTING LOAD!
- LETS YOU MOUNT
FROM THE GROUND WITHOUT "ROLLING" & UNDO DISCOMFORT TO YOUR EQUINE!
BENDING & STOPPING & PULLING ARE DRAMATICALLY IMPROVED!
ROPER, REINERS, CUTTERS, & TRAIL RIDERS, see the above & love it !